Once associated with dowdy sacks for the cement, sugar and fertiliser industries, the $1-billion Indian jute industry is getting an image makeover thanks to better designed goods made with this ‘golden fibre’, rising environmental concern and new marketing strategies.

A wide range of everyday products is available today made with jute, the most popular natural fibre after cotton, of which India is not just the

largest producer, accounting for 60 percent of the world output, but also consumer and exporter.

Such merchandise, which is also making its way to discerning markets in the US and Europe, includes table mats, coasters, cushion covers, curtains,

doormats, belts, and even school bags carried by millions of children.

“When we talk about jute, people usually think of sacks or gunny bags,” said Atri Bhattacharya, secretary of the Jute Manufactures Development Council,

one of the several organisations promoted by the government to help the industry.

“There are so many attractive items made of jute. It’s so fashionable today.

And the best part is that it is eco-friendly, reusable,” Bhattacharya, whose council is a representative body of growers, producers and exporters of

jute, told IANS.

The council believes the ban on polythene bags by some states like Delhi were steps in the right direction for the eco-friendly fibre. That is the

reason why the council has launched fresh ad campaigns, like the ones urging schoolchildren to switch to jute bags.

Designers and traders in jute goods said in bags alone, the offerings today include not just the traditional jute-based sacks but also clutch bags,

party bags, laundry bags, rucksacks, gunny bags, totes, shopping bags and wine bags.

The merchandise is now available in the numerous flea markets across the country and also at upscale stores like Fab India, the Santushti complex in

the national capital, Anokhi designer stores and Nature Design Concepts.

These, the retailers said, also cater to the tastes of the well-heeled shoppers and priced at some Rs.100 ($2) for a plain vanilla bag, going up to

a few thousand rupees, depending on the designs and colours.

“You can carry them with élan,” said Aditi Shukla, a student of fashion design in the national capital. “These green bags will be trend setters

soon.”

There are also socio-economic issues associated with jute. It supports four million farm families, mainly in the eastern states, notably West Bengal,

and provides direct jobs to 260,000 industrial workers and 140,000 people in tertiary activities.

“Organic fabric is becoming popular because these materials are biodegradable. Using these natural materials also helps in giving

employment. In a way we are contributing to society,” said Ritu Kumar, one of the better-known fashion designers.

“I have personally decided to stay way from manmade fibres because the work has become very mechanical now. With the natural fibre, there is endless

possibility of experimentation. Hence I am working on it now.”

According to the council, India is the world’s largest producer of jute-based goods, averaging 1.6 million tonnes per annum in the past five

years with domestic sales of 1.4 million tonnes and exports of 285,000 tonnes.

India also accounts for more than 60 percent of the world jute production with the bulk of the output coming from West Bengal, followed by Bihar,

Assam, Orissa, Andhra Pradesh and Tripura.

According to the textiles ministry, there are 77 composite jute mills in India, of which 60 are in West Bengal, three each in Bihar and Uttar

Pradesh, seven in Andhra Pradesh and one each in Assam, Orissa, Tripura and Chattisgarh.

Globally, the cultivation of jute has been going on since time immemorial, even finding mention in ancient texts of Africa and Asia. In fact, paper

made of jute has been discovered in China, dating back to 200 BC.

In India, too, cultivation of jute has been on for several millennia. But the real organised development of the industry started in the 17th century

and the first mill was established in 1855 at Rishra, on the banks of Hooghly, near Kolkata.

Till independence in 1947, the industry was controlled by jute barons, mainly Britons, following which it passed into the hands of rich Indians,

primarily the business families of Rajasthan and Gujarat who had made West Bengal their home.

Despite such a long history, industry experts said, quality and pricing remain two major issues coming in the way of promoting and popularising

jute. “But we are looking at these factors. You must understand that unlike polythene, jute isn’t a standardised product yet,” Bhattacharya said.

“We are also looking at a proper supply chain in cities like Delhi where the off-take is good,” he explained, adding the same was being done in the

tourist destinations of Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh, where plastic bags are banned.

“In Delhi, jute bags are also used in an institutional way. The demand is there and it’s fulfilled accordingly. Unfortunately this does not happen in

the same way in Kolkata or other cities,” said Sanjay Kajaria, chairman of the Indian Jute Mills Association.

According to him, there were too many tiny players in the industry and that is fragmenting growth. “We are talking to the textile ministry to

institutionalise the manufacturing process so that this problem gets addressed.

“Apart from the niche market, we should look at the volumes market where people will use jute bags for their daily use, apart from fancy use.

Export is also the way to go,” he